Life in a Metro - Kolkata

"... if you want a city with a soul, come to Kolkata."

- Vir Sanghvi

But of course, what better icon than the Howrah Bridge?

Twenty months ago, something I never imagined would happen, happened. Of all the places, they had to send me to Kolkata. Kolkata, where people flood the streets, where the roads and pavements and walls are all dirty, where the air is stale and polluted and where safety is a major concern, right? WRONG. I was fed with mental images of what people thought was the City of Joy; I don't even know where to begin debunking their claims.

The whole mind set I had about the city went for a toss the moment I stepped out of the airport. Clean roads, breathable air and a generally serene environment waited to greet me. And so, with an open mind, I stepped in; that has to be one of the best decisions I've ever made. I began to explore Kolkata without any prejudice or preconceived notions.

The recently developed areas in Kolkata were planned and executed so well, you'd be shocked that so much modern planning can go into a city so ancient. Enter the older areas. Calcutta, if I may, is a vast expanse of organized chaos, lined with the traditional and the modern. From Park Street to Alipore to Ballygunge to Tollygunge, each place is an artwork in its own right. You can catch glimpses of architecture from every decade dating back probably all the way to the 1700s, possibly more. The fact that these structures have survived the silent destroyer that is time is testament to the quality of craftsmanship back in the day. The infamous tram is still functioning just the same. On the whole, it's a delicate mix of the old and the new, captivating anyone and everyone.

Not interested in admiring abstract magnificence? Need quantifiable, branded/named locations or “sight-seeing spots”? Fret not, for the city has a good many places to visit. Off the top of my head, these include, but are definitely not limited to, the royal Victoria Memorial, the Alipore Zoo, Eden Gardens for the cricket crazy, Salt Lake Stadium for the football fanatics, IIM Calcutta for the studious and of course, the magnificent Howrah Bridge, running over the Hooghly. One can also find Kali/Durga temples of varying size and grandeur across the city.

One place though deserves special mention. Once Rabindranath Tagore's abode, Shantiniketan is now home to some of the greatest artistic talents in the country. It is one of the few remaining institutions to use the traditional ways of teaching. A walk through the campus, watching students paint, sing, dance or play music can enlighten one's soul. A simple, humble place with immeasurable cultural value, Shantiniketan is one of a kind and has to be experienced first-hand.

Among all the things people told me before coming here, if they were right about one thing, it's the sweets. Sure, I’ve had rasgullas and milk sweets before, and they do not come close to the real deal. Thousands of flavours of Sandesh. Jalebi. Rasmalai. Rasgulla. Mishti doi. The list is endless. Twenty months later you would think I have tried them all; I barely scraped the surface. There is so much to explore, each with its own new taste, a new experience with every bite.

What's a city without its people? “The City of Joy” should paint a fair picture. Always lively, usually polite and fiercely protective of their culture, the people of Kolkata are a proud folk and are not afraid to show it. Always ready for a good conversation. They always try to make outsiders like myself feel at home. They are passionate about what they love and will defend their passion with fire and blood.

The grandest of all the things Kolkata throws at you is the 10-day Durga Puja festival climaxing with Dusshera. The city is rejuvenated, alive and hyperactive round the clock. Some mind-blowing artwork and architecture go into the preparations for the puja, attracting huge crowds even as late as 3AM in the night. The effort that goes into the stalls go up is unmatched. The biggest ones have their own stories to tell, narrating through masterful artwork. Once again, this is one experience that has to be gained first hand.

One must sympathize with the bus drivers and conductors though, they work day in and day out during this period while the rest of the city is out and about, enjoying the fervour that is Durga Puja. Massive respect.

For all its glory, Kolkata does have its own shortcomings. The city is massively overpopulated, and while it's not apparent in the outer regions, a Saturday morning ride around town is enough to give you nightmares about crowded buses, trains and platforms for days.

Being an introvert, I'm not the most social person you’d find. I did not make many friends and I was happy with the little circle I had. However, there is ample opportunity to flaunt your social skills if you’re up to it. I had trouble with the language at first but I'm not complaining. I realized this is how anybody from outside my state would feel when they come there.

As my rather short stay at the City of Joy comes to a close, I can safely say that Kolkata has to be the best city I've lived in, barring my own hometown because, well, hometown bias! It has everything, from art and culture to adventure and glamour, and will leave no one disappointed. Throw away your fears and apprehensions, as Kolkata is one city you cannot afford to skip.